Sauce Instructions:
- Heat a dry heavy skillet or griddle over medium.
- Tear the chiles into flat pieces, then toast them a few at a time: use a metal spatula to press the chile pieces flat against the hot surface, skin side up, until they are aromatic and have lightened in color underneath, about 10 seconds. (If the heat is right, you’ll hear a slight crackle when you press them down, but you shouldn’t see more than the slightest wisp of smoke.)
